Friday, June 28, 2013

counter steer

Try to explain counter steer to someone and watch their eyes gloss over, explain it to 24 students in a classroom and you may as well be teaching physics.... wait, what?

PHYSICS!?! What does physics have to do with riding a motorcycle? 

Confused yet?

We use the terms "to turn right, press right" and "to turn left, press left".

This is where I confused the students, but this is counterintuitive.... close, you've got the "counter" part down, now let's work on the "steering" part. I mentioned that they've been doing it all their lives on a bicycle, they just didn't know it. Well, talk about adding to the confusion, now they're thinking back to the last time they rode a bicycle, which may be as early as last week but more than likely when they were twelve years old. 

One can explain countersteering until they're blue in the face, it is just something one has to experience on the bike in a controlled environment under the watchful eye of professional instructors to truly appreciate.

After class, a student approached me for clarification and asked "do you press down on the bars or push forward, because you motioned to push but said to press?"

Respectfully, yet somewhat confused myself, I reiterated, "Press left, go left and press right to go right so press forward on the handgrip, not down".

This is where the male brain and female brain work differently and she provided a completely different perspective. 

She explained her definition of press and push while motioning "you press down on a table, so this is press" 


 "This is push, so you want us to push on the bars?"


A young male student shared his perspective and stated that he thinks of push as a pushup. Now we're all confused. 

Pushup vs. bench press 
Push a button vs. press a button
Push your luck vs. press your luck


Exert force on (someone or something), typically with one's hand, in order to move them away from oneself or the origin of the force.


  1. Move or cause to move into a position of contact with something by exerting continuous physical force: "he pressed his face to the glass".
  2. Put (someone or something) to a specified use, esp. as a temporary or makeshift measure.

Either way:

Tuesday, June 25, 2013

Mad bastard is done

Well its a wrap.

Started Friday night with a Rider meeting and a start at 4:07 AM was 7 off the line followed by Darryl Number 8 one minute later.

Never looked Back... wide open for 99 % of the time 

The Bride and Groom at the rider meeting.the Bride machine died 1/2 round
The route

Calaboogie Lunch stop 1/2 way

Total Mileage
Total Time

My tired ride

Darryl tired Ride

 All in all a great day... 20 % of the time was rain ... and the rest sunny

Drafting is worth about 4 Km per hr on 50 cc scooters.

Total time was 15 hr 17 minutes Moving average 54 km hr.

Tuesday, June 18, 2013

One week to go – the excitement is maddening


Be ready for a long ride.
Be ready for a long ride.
It’s going to be pretty tough (lots of hills) and after a few modifications (one of the gas stations en route has closed down since the last scout) the main loop distance is now a challenging 674 km. As always we’ve got a bonus loop for the truly mad amoungst you, which will add another 170 km or so.
This means that the minimal average speeds we put in the recent Rider’s Letter are a little slow. Here’s the retweaked figures but bear in mind this is the slowest you can go on average if you want to make it back within your allotted time.
Scooter Size
Time Allowed
Average Speed (Main Loop)
Average Speed (Bonus Loop)
Straight Jacket
Up to 50cc
24 hours
28.1 km/h
34.8 km/h
Heavily Medicated
Greater than 50cc & up to 110cc
20 hours
33.8 km/h
41.8 km/h
Therapy Required
Greater than 110cc & up to 200cc
18 hours
37.5 km/h
46.4 km/h
Day Release
Greater than 200cc
16 hours
42.2 km/h
52.2 km/h

Tuesday, June 11, 2013

From great read had to share

Just getting started riding motorcycles? Here’s everything you need to know about riding gear — helmets, jackets, gloves, boots and such — in one digestible package.
One of the most frequent enquiries we get here at RideApart isn’t about which motorcycle to buy or how to learn to ride, but what gear to buy and wear once you’ve accomplished all that. Here’s the info you need to make smart decisions, to be more comfortable, safer and, hopefully, save some money in the process.
Why You Need Good Gear
The fastest human in the world is Ussain Bolt. During the 100 meter sprint, he peaks at 27.78mph. If he falls going that speed, he’ll likely sustain serious injury. The human body simply didn’t evolve to go any faster, which is why even falling off a horse (Guinness World Record top speed: 43.97mph) can lead to death.
On a motorcycle, you’re going to be travelling much faster. Even around town you’ll be hitting 50mph or more and, on the highway, you may find yourself exceeding 85mph. Your skin, bones and organs were not designed to withstand impacts at those speeds.
Then there’s the question of abrasion. As a general rule of thumb, figuring the average road surface, you can expect to lose one millimeter of flesh for every mile-an-hour you’re going over 30 when you crash. No, we don’t know why the thumb mixed empirical and metric units. So, at the top speed of that horse, you’ll have lost 1.4cm (or over half an inch) of skin and muscle. Where on your body can you afford to lose that much? And that’s at only 44mph. What if you crash at 70 and lose an inch and a half? We’re talking serious, life threatening injuries from abrasion alone.
Then there’s the weather. What if it’s kinda cold out? Even at, say, a 50 degree (F) ambient temperature, windchill at 55mph is going to make it feel like it’s 25 degrees out. So from the kind of temperature in which you need a light sweater, to the kind of cold where you want long undies and a down jacket. Getting wet would compound that much further.
Gear can even help when it’s hot by better allowing your body’s natural evaporative cooling effect to take place. Under constant wind blast, the sweat is blown off your skin too quickly for it to have a cooling effect. Put on a jacket, helmet, boots, gloves and pants, however, and your body is free to cool itself as designed.
Luckily, mankind has achieved through science what evolution has failed to provide — clothing that protects you from accidents, the elements and makes riding an easier, more comfortable experience.
According to a study published by Dietmar Otte, 45% of all impacts to motorcycle helmets occur around the face, in an area not covered by open-face or ¾-type helmets. You really, really, really want to be wearing a full-face helmet. As an added bonus, they’ll keep the wind out of your eyes and bugs out of your teeth too.
Helmets typicaly have a five year life. After that, the glue and whatnot used to bond layers of the EPS impact absorption material (precisely tailored densities of Styrofoam) begin to degrade, impacting safety.
Like the crumple zone in a car, helmets are also designed to destroy themselves in a crash, thereby dissipating the energy that would otherwise be transferred to your head. Sometimes, a helmet can experience a crash without external signs of damage, but still sustain unseen effects. To ensure that your helmet is fully capable of protecting you, always buy a new helmet from a reputable retailer and then treat it like a baby, never allowing it to fall to the ground or otherwise be damaged.
Street helmets look like this.
Dirt helmets look like this. You wear them with goggles. Yes, they do protect your face, but that pronounced chin may exaggerate torsional forces in a crash. They’ll also be noisy and unstable at highway speeds. Choose the right helmet for the kind of riding you plan to do.
To be legally worn on the road in America, any motorcycle helmet must be marked with a DOT-approved sticker. You’ll see those affixed prominently on the back.
That’s just a minimal legal standard though. Two other certifications compete for your dollar by promising greater safety, both legally voluntary in the United States. “ECE 22.05” is the European Union’s legal standard, while there’s also something called “Snell” which is popular with a couple large helmet manufacturers here in the States. Avoid Snell-rated helmets if you have an abnormally small (as in a child or smaller woman) or large head; until recently, Snell didn’t acknowledge that different size heads have different weights, so the impact absorption material may not be properly spec’d to reduce impact forces.
If you want the best possible safety, simply opt for an ECE 22.05-rated helmet. Every single racer in MotoGP (the top level of motorcycle sport) chooses to wear an ECE-rated helmet and they tend to be lighter and more able to prevent concussions than their Snell equivalent.
And you don’t need to spend a ton of cash to get the safest possible helmet. We love the Icon Airmada, which has some of the best ventilation you can find in any helmet, is built to the ECE 22.05 standard and starts at just $180 for plain colors.
Like other affordable helmets, the Airmada uses a plastic shell. More expensive ones use more expensive materials for shell construction like a fiberglass/Kevlar/carbon fiber weave. This can make them lighter, but does not make them any safer. Spending up to a very expensive helmet nets you things like paint quality, fancy graphics and fancier ventilation, not added safety. Most of what you’re paying for is brand.
The shape and size of every person’s head is unique. You need to find a helmet that fits you perfectly, sizes and shapes vary heavily between manufacturers and models. To determine your shape and size, visit a large brick-and-mortar retailer and try on every helmet you can. You’ll know one fits when it evenly holds your head all the way around, with no pressure points. Put it on, grasp the chin and try to rotate the helmet while resisting the movement with your head. The helmet shouldn’t be able to rotate independently of your scalp. It should fit snugly, but not be too tight.
RevZilla has a no-hassle return policy. Allowing you to try different items of gear on and, if they don’t fit, exchange them for stuff that does.
Other considerations to bear in mind are weight, noise and aerodynamics. You’ll find those addressed in motorcycle helmet reviews.
A jacket covers the other stuff on your body that’s fragile and important. Arms, back, ribs, organs, all that fun stuff. You absolutely must choose a motorcycle-specific jacket for purposes of both safety and comfort. “Fashion” leather jackets and similar are not made to withstand either the windblast or crashes that real motorcycle jackets are built to deal with.
Motorcycle jackets fall into two categories: leather and textile. High quality textile materials like 1000 denier Cordura are able to resist abrasion as strongly as leather, while typically coming equipped with Gore-Tex or other water-resistant membranes capable of keeping you dry in bad weather. Leather looks the way you’d expect a classic “biker” to look though and jackets made from it typically last longer and fit more closely to the body. Textile jackets are often more affordable.
Both motorcycle-specific leather and textile jackets come with all sorts of features you won’t find elsewhere. Seams are doubled up multiple times to protect the stitching from abrasion and increase strength against bursting. They’re designed to fit snugly in high-speed wind blast. They can seal out cold air or let in cooling air via vents.
They also have body armor — impact absorbing material that cushions your most vulnerable parts in a crash. In order to be effective, that armor should come with a “CE” safety rating. You want it in the elbows, shoulders and back. Some jackets also fit chest protectors to protect your ribs, heart and lungs. Again, look for that “CE” rating, many jackets cut costs by simply including a piece of foam in place of a real back protector. Often, there’s a pocket shaped to fit a real back protector sold by the same company.
You want that jacket to fit snugly, but leave your arms free to articulate fully. Consider the style of bike you ride and choose a jacket cut to work in its riding position. Sport Bikes require you to hunch over, requiring some extra articulation for a jacket to be comfortable on them.
Then, think about what kind of weather you’ll most frequently be riding in. Jackets made from mesh, perforated leather or with lots of zip-open vents are good for warm weather, but not the cold or wet and vice versa.
Some jackets feature zippers around the bottom enabling them to connect to a pair of riding pants, forming a suit. Doing so better seals out the elements and helps the whole thing stay on in a crash, but those zippers often require matching tops and bottoms from the same company, sized correctly, to work.
Denim jeans will not protect you in a motorcycle accident. No ifs, ands or butts.
Jeans that are either made from or include Kevlar panels offer slightly more abrasion resistance, but are still a compromise, offering nothing like the protection of a true pair of riding pants.
Like jackets, pants are available in leather or textile materials and should be equipped with CE-rated armor in the hips, shins and knees. They should fit snugly, but comfortable and allow full leg articulation. Try them on a bike, in a riding position close to that of your own to determine if they’ll work.
If you want to zip pants to your jacket, make sure the manufacturer advertises the compatibility of the pair. Identical names are a good hint here, but look a the circumference of the zipper (does it wrap fully around your waist or only partially) for a good idea of whether or not it will work. Again, you’ll typically need pants and jacket from the same manufacturer for this to work.
Beginner Motorcycles
Most street bikes weigh more than 350lbs. Frequently, they’re much heavier. You’ll need to support that weight and your own through your legs, ankles and feet on slippery, uneven, unpredictable surfaces. For that reason alone, a sturdy pair of boots with oil-resistant, non-slip soles and good ankle support should be considered a minimum.
Your feet and ankles are also very vulnerable in a crash, so you’ll want to protect them. To see what will happen to your feet in a crash in a given pair of footwear, grasp them by the toe and heal and twist. If the result doesn’t look like your foot would survive intact, then it probably won’t.
In a riding boot, you want soles that prevent that twisting. Frequently, that’s accomplished with a metal plate running through the sole. Strong heal and toe boxes also help lock your feet in and reduce the force of impacts to those areas. Armor over the ankle and shin protects those areas.
Any boot considered for riding a motorcycle should lace tightly to a point above the ankle. Anything less and it will likely fly off in an accident, offering zero protection.
Your hands are an awesome combination of extreme fragility combined with utter necessity. You need them to do stuff and they’re also the first thing to touch down in any crash. So you need to protect them. Motorcycle gloves should fully cover your fingers, palm, the back of your hands and your wrists. There should be significant overlap between glove and jacket so that you never see any skin exposed between the two.
In order for a glove to remain on your hand in a crash, it needs a retention strap around the wrist. Consider this feature a minimum entry point for any riding glove. After that, you want to look for strong, abrasion-resistant materials and strong, protected stitching. Materials like Kevlar are often spec’d for the stitching for their ability to resist abrasion and bursting.
Last, but not least is armor. While most motorcycle gloves spec armor for the knuckles, it’s actually the base of your palm that will impact in nearly any crash and which needs protection the most. Look for materials here that will slide rather than catch on the pavement and which can provide some impact protection. Armor anywhere else is welcome, but can cause the glove to bind or pinch your hand as you grip the controls. Make sure any glove you chose allows you to operate the controls on your bike unimpeded.
There’s nothing like a full, head-to-toe motorcycle suit for comfort and protection from both crashes and the elements. But, they also tend to be very expensive.
A good way to get started on a budget, is with a jacket and pants that zip together. This will allow you greater flexibility in the way you wear it, for instance allowing you to wear the jacket alone for a short trip, or zip into the full suit when it’s more appropriate.
One-piece suits typically allow more flexibility and movement than two-pieces, but at the expense of that versatility.
Same advice on armor and materials as the above items.
The most versatile, highest quality suit on the market is the Aerostich Roadcrafter, which, aided by a head-to-toe zipper, allows you to zip into and out of full protection in under 15 seconds, all while wearing your regular streetwear underneath. It’s appropriate for commuters, tourers, adventure riding and pretty much everything else, but isn’t as appropriate as a one-piece leather suit for sport riding. Starting at just $727, it may even be more affordable than some jacket/pants combinations. Aerostich uses proprietary armor which isn’t CE-rated, but is an exception to the rule in that it’s still as safe as can be.
As mentioned above, motorcycle body armor protects you from impacts by absorbing energy that would otherwise be transferred to your joints, limbs and body.
Whether purchase separately or included in an item of riding gear, you want it to fit snugly in a manner which won’t see it shift or move around in a crash. It should be comfortable and not restrict movement in any way. Also think about its area of coverage, you want it to cover as much of you as possible. Some cheaper elbow protectors, for instance, don’t extend very far down your forearm while the real quality stuff does. Back protectors should cover everything from your coccyx to the base of your neck.
Those back protectors are available in two levels of safety: CE1 and CE2. CE1 is the less safe of the two, but protectors made to that lower standard are often lighter, more flexible, cheaper and breathe better. Protection you wear more often is better protection.
You can often upgrade the armor in an item of riding gear by ordering superior, but more expensive items and retrofitting them. To do this, check to see if the item of clothing features removable armor in Velcro pockets or similar. Because not all armor is of the same shape and size, ordering it from the same manufacturer as the item of clothing is typically necessary.
The most frequent upgrade you’ll perform is to the back protector. If you feel that your jacket or suit’s is sub-par, you can fit a better one in the pocket or simply opt for a strap-on item which you wear separately, under the jacket or suit. Strap-on protectors typically cover a greater portion of your body.
Other things to consider when thinking about riding gear are long underwear, earplugs and eye protection.
Long underwear is available in both summer and winter versions, the former working with your natural cooling process to better facilitate moisture wicking, keeping you cool and sweat-free. If you’re trying to stay warm, look for long undwear made with a wind-resistant membrane such as Gore Wind Stopper. You’ll be surprised at how many drafts get inside your gear in cold weather. Extend this protection to your feet, hands and head and neck to reap its full benefits.
The inside of a motorcycle helmet is as loud as a jet engine at highway speeds, so you’ll want to wear earplugs to maximize comfort and preserve your hearing over time. The RideApart staff swears by Howard Leight Max Lite earplugs, which are both comfortable and affordable.
You’ll likely also want to protect your eyes from glare and the sun. Wearing sunglasses inside a helmet can be tricky, so a tinted visor is the best option. You’ll need one specifically designed to fit your helmet. Always carry a clear visor with you if there’s even a slight chance you’ll be out after dark. Wearing a tinted visor at night is extremely dangerous, reducing your vision to an extreme degree.
Riding a motorcycle exposes you to extreme risk, variations in weather and requires your full concentration and physical ability. Luckily, motorcycle gear is available that can keep you safe in a crash, comfortable in any weather condition and it even reduces fatigue. As such, it should be considered a vital necessity when riding a motorcycle. Factor its cost into the overall price of purchasing a bike. There’s no such thing as not being able to afford good gear, reduce the price of the bike you’re buying until you can afford to buy the helmet, jacket, gloves, pants and boots necessary to ride it.
One of the things you’re buying into is also the motorcycle family. We’re here to help. Consider the comments section below an open invitation to ask us anything related to motorcycle gear. No question is stupid, no question is unwelcome, just ask it and we’ll help. Have we forgotten anything? Let us know about that too please, we really want this to be a one-stop resource for new riders.

Friday, May 17, 2013

Riding Skills | Do Something, or do Nothing

A Great Read and I wanted to share

Some parts of riding are simple. When the choices of action are limited or easy to grasp, riders feel in control. When choices are more complex or not fully understood, errors can occur. If riding sometimes feels like a coin toss—heads, I brake; tails, I gas it—realize that you have some work to do.
A rider’s skills are improving when his or her choices yield consistent results. Recognizing when our choices produce good results is the first step in trusting ourselves as riders. Choices come in all shapes and sizes. Common ones, like choosing which part of the lane to occupy, are both simple and powerful. Consider, for example, the choice to avoid the middle of the lane. Identifying the situation—the dark middle is mostly greasy car droppings—and combining that knowledge with an action—shifting to one side of the lane or the other—results in a more predictable and often confidence-building outcome: In this case, better traction.
Flicking your bike through a set of S-turns presents a rider with many more available choices and considerably less time to make a decision. Each individual action creates a ripple effect. The decision to steer now or to wait half a heartbeat is not trivial. It can be the difference between following a good line or a bad line through the turn.
At almost every moment in the saddle, riders are confronted with the choice to do something or do nothing. Provided you have some measure of riding savvy and at least a mediocre command of the motorcycle’s controls, good judgment amounts to little more than knowing when to—or when not to—act. This something/nothing decision process begins the instant you let out the clutch. Just count the number of actions stopped or changed in that one simple act of releasing clutch lever pressure and applying throttle, and you may be surprised at how many there are. Every change, no matter how minute, represents a choice to do something or to do nothing. This is the micro side of skilled motorcycle operation. Some may say I’m looking too closely, but I contend these mini-decisions are what rule our riding.
Less-skilled riders sometimes seem bent on doing something all the time, and they appear busy because of that. Seasoned riders better understand when to do something and when to do nothing. Less experienced riders often look busy and nervous. Seasoned riders with evolved skills look almost lazy and relaxed, even when executing complex tasks. It’s like that in every sport or performance, not just on a motorcycle.
Sometimes action is required, and sometimes it’s not. This is why telling someone to “just relax” is poor coaching. In order to relax with confidence, riders first must know when to act or not act. In this respect, “just relax” is the wrong advice, unless it is combined with specific suggestions on when and where to do something, so that later you can be lazy and do nothing.
In the final analysis, what you do do is more important than what you don’t do, at least when it comes to looking and feeling relaxed on the bike. A rider that knows how to make the right decisions proactively doesn’t appear tense and stiff, like a rider who is anxiously waiting for something to happen and then trying to react.
Every rider has the goal to be smoother, faster, more confident, and to feel less at-risk while riding. Each of these goals is achieved by making the optimum micro choices of action or non-action. To do or not to do, that is the question. Each twitch of the throttle hand, each stab at the brake lever, each false or mistimed steering input, each jerky eye movement, all create busywork and prevent smooth actions, speed, or confidence from increasing. Every action has an effect, especially ill-conceived actions.
Understanding is the foundation of improvement, and understanding is the most direct route to the level of skill you envision for yourself and your riding. This is one time when you definitely want to do something, then—get yourself to a track day or riding school and get to work.

Monday, April 22, 2013

I Must be a Mad Bastard

We have done it

Will fill you in on the results

More to come !

Tuesday, November 27, 2012


Must wear gear all the time 

Adventure Scooters

Adventure riding is a state of mind, not that of the right motorcycle. Of course a big bore BMW or KTM helps, but anything PTW will do the job.

Scooter, though made for city riding, can be used for adventure rides. Here are 26 photos of scooters ready for a long distance ride into the unknown. 
The traditional

Motorcycle Motovational

Every one will relate to at least one of these...